What is plant hardiness zone

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A hardness zone is a geographically defined area in which climatic conditions’ a specific category of plant life is capable of growing, including its ability to survive the minimum temperatures of winter.

The Canadian hardiness map prepared in 2000 by Natural Resources and Agriculture Canada is divided into nine major hardiness zones: the harshest is 0 and the mildest is 8. Relatively few plants are suited to zone 0.  In addition to zones, also subzones (e.g., 4a or 4b, 5a or 5b) are noted in the map legend. These subzones are very important to  gardeners, as they pinpoint to their garden location.

The hardiness zones differ even within the greater Toronto area. For instance, Mississauga and Oakville fall into zone 6b, Brampton 6a and Etobicoke 7a. That means that in most part of Mississauga only plants that survive in the lowest temperatures -20.6 to -17.8 C, should be planted, while this threshold is lower in some parts of Toronto, including Etobicoke, where this range is -17.8 to -15.0 C, and in Brampton where the range is lower between -23.3 and -20.6 C.

Ash trees are dying in Ontario

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healthy & infested ash tree

As many of you have already noticed ash tress in Peel, Halton, GTA and York region are dying while others are being infested by the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB).  The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) is a highly destructive invasive insect that attacks and kills all species of ash trees native to North America. This invasive pest tunnels underneath the bark, cutting off the flow of water and nutrients and killing the tree within a few years.

Introduced from Asia in the early 1990s, but discovered in the Detroit and Windsor areas only in 2002, it is believed that the insect was brought to North America unintentionally via wooden packing crates. In 2008 the CFIA confirmed the presence of EAB in Mississauga.  EAB has been confirmed across southwestern Ontario and has been identified as far east as Montreal and it has been declared an invasive alien species by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) and is therefore subject to quarantine (that means that movement of ash wood products outside of the quarantine area is prohibited).  A large section of southwestern Ontario is now under quarantine.

There are somewhere between 700,000 – 1ooo,000 ash trees in Mississauga alone.   EAB invasion will have a devastating impact on our urban forest.  While, as part of its Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) management program for City-owned trees, the City is in the process of inspecting woodlots and identifying trees for removal due to the declining health and increasing hazard of trees infected by EAB; there is no similar programme for privately owned trees as they are considered the responsibility of the owner.

There are things you can do:

  • learn how to identify ash trees
  • look for signs of EAB infestation – see the Emerald Ash Borer fact sheet – most common signs of EAB infestation include:
    • bark damage – vertical cracks appear in the bark
    • shoots growing from the trunk and branches o f the tree
    • crown dieback – loss of leaves in the tree canopy
    • discoloration or yellowing of the leaves
    • D-shaped exit holes
    • increased presence of woodpeckers feeding
  • determine if treatment can save your ash tree
  • hire a qualified landscaping company if removal is required
  • plant alternative native trees to protect our urban forest

Landscaping Mississauga gardens – Lawn weeds control

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crabgrassBefore we say anything else, it is important to note that it is difficult if not impossible for weeds to invade dense, healthy turf and so they are seldom a serious problem on well-constructed and properly maintained lawns.  Weeds can be troublesome on neglected areas or lawns on poor soil. Although hand pulling is practical when weeds are sparse, high weed populations require chemical treatment. If weeds continue to invade after proper chemical treatment, some other facet of maintenance is at fault and steps should be taken to remedy the failing.

Chemicals used to control weeds in established lawns are called herbicides and are applied as preemergence or postemergence treatments.  Preeemergence herbicides are applied before weed seeds germinate and as the the seeds or seedlings begin growth they absorb enough chemical to kill them. Permanent lawn grasses are relatively unaffected. Postemergence herbicides are applied after weed seed germination when the weeds are in active growth, and such formulations do not greatly affect affect lawn grasses. Some chemicals are selective in that they kill only broad-leaved plants but not grass.  Others are nonselective and kill both weeds and lawn grasses.

  • Correctly identifying the weed and then selecting a proper chemical for its control are crucial.
  • Timing is also important. For example, dandelions may be controlled in midspring and late summer in Ontario because they are growing actively and are very susceptible to selective chemicals.
  • Choose a clear day with little or no air movement and temperatures of 15-25 C degrees. Such weather permits rapid absorption and uptake of the chemical with little chance of drift or spread beyond the treated area.
  • Do not apply herbicides during the excessive heat.
  • Follow exactly the directions on the package regarding dosages.
  • Keep all containers out of the reach of children and pets.
  • Wash your hands thoroughly after using the chemicals.
  • Do not use the same sprayer for different pesticides because it is virtually impossible to rinse out all traces of toxic herbicides; use separate sprayers and label them clearly.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – lawn care tips

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lawnWhen the snow melts, your first impulse may be to get working on your lawn – but hold on your horses ………. starting too soon may actually do more harm than good.  If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, that means that it is still too early.  Wait until the ground feels firm.   That’s the time to start working on your lawn.

The secret to a grassy yard all year-around are the following easy 8 easy steps:

1. Clean up the yard  Remove all fallen stems, branches and leaves by gently raking your lawn and gathering all the debris.  If there is more than 1cm (1/2 in.) of brown, matted blades of grass located where the soil meets the roots of your lawn, you will need to dethatch using a fan rake (if you have a large space, you may want to rent a motorized dethacher from RONA or Home Depot).

2. Curb local critters  Check the yard for any evidence of tunneling moles: little raised hills and underground tunnels in your lawn.  Fix the damage by tamping down tunnels and applying blood meal (you can find it in any garden centre). True to its name blood meal is a dry, inert powder actually made from animal blood as a slaughterhouse by-product.  It is one of the highest non-synthetic sources of nitrogen used as a composting activator as well as it can be spread on gardens to deter animals.  Used on your lawn it should discourage repeat visits from moles. Once the weather warms up, getting rid of the grubs moles feed on will also control future tunneling.

3. Aerate  Buy or rent a manual or power aerator (tip: share the cost with your  neighbours!) to remove little plugs of compacted soil from your lawn, so that air, water and nutrients can flow to the root zone, improving your lawn’s look and overall health. Aeration is especially essential in high-traffic areas, such as common paths and in areas with clay-based soil (which is most of Mississauga).

4. Top dress and reseed  This step will make your lawn thick and lush – and, as a result, naturally weed resistant.  “Top dressing” means spreading an even layer of of soil across your lawn, filling holes and leveling out uneven spots. Don’t cover the blades on your grass entirely in the process though! Then spread a good quality grass seed across your lawn (read the labels on the package carefully to make sure that the grass seed you apply is properly suited to the amount of light in your yard – sun or shade).  Rake it gently (there is no need to cover it again with more soil), and water very well.  Grass seed need soil that is warmer than 15 deg. C to germinate or you will be just wasting seed or money.  A great and simple way to check the soil’s temperature is to stick a kitchen meat thermometer in the ground and measure the temperature…. 🙂

5. Fertilize  Apply lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen (the first number on the bag) early in the season. Choose a “slow release” formula so your lawn gets a consistent feeding of nutrients over time, while limiting the release of of fertilizer into the water with rain and preventing fertilizer’s burns on  your lawn.  My favourite is Scott’s Turf Builder Pro.

6. Water wisely  Lawns love water. The average lawn needs at least 30 to 40 mm (11/2 to 2 in.) of water per week.  If mother nature isn’t providing enough in the form of a rain, you will h ave to supplement it with a hose and a sprinkler.  Water regularly during the early morning hours when it’s cooler.  To figure out how long you need to water your lawn do a simple experiment the first time you are watering: set out a wide, empty container, such as margarine tub) in the centre of your lawn and check the time before you start watering; when the water in the container reaches 30 to 40 mm, you can turn off your water. Check the time again – now you know how long you need to water your lawn…. 🙂

7. Deal with the weeds  To get rid of weeds, you can apply an environmentally friendly herbicide like Scotts Eco Sense Weed B Gon, or remove them by hand.  If you choose the latter, I recommend doing so after a rain – weeding is a breeze when the ground is wet. Take care to ensure you’ve removed the plant and its entire taproot, And get to them before they go to seed , or you will only have more dandelions to pull in the weeks ahead.  Note that crabgrass control products prevent germination, so if you’ve used it on your lawn, you must wait up to 8 weeks before reseeding.

8. Cut the lawn with care  Mow your lawn to a height of 5 or 6 cm (2.5 – 3 in.)  This ensures the blades are just tall enough to shade out and prevent weeds from germinating, and also to keep roots pf your lawn cool. Plan on mowing once a week, alternating the direction each time. so if you run the mower up and down perpendicular to your house this weekend, you should run it back and forth parallel with your house next time.

If you have any questions or need help, just get in touch.  We are here to help

Soil preparation for gardening & landscaping in Mississauga & GTA area

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soil preparationAs the weather teases us one day into believing that spring is already here; and the other day reminding us that the winter still rules, the green thumbs amongst us are eager to do something for their gardens.  Perhaps the best thing one can do while going through the ups and downs of undecided weather is to devote the time to the preparation of the soil for planting at a later time.  This is an important task as the success or failure of a garden largely depends on the soil where the plants live and grow.

There are basically three kinds of soil:  sandy, clayey and loamy.  Loam is a combination of clay and enough sand to offset the cohesive properties of the clay. It also contains considerable amount of decomposed organic matter or humus, which provides fertility, moisture retention, and hospitable environment for friendly bacteria and other organisms.  In our part of Ontario, and especially in Mississauga, the soil is mostly clayey – formed by extremely fine and compacted soil particles.  This type of soil impedes drainage, becoming a hard, solid crusted mass when dry and turning swampy when wet.  It  does not hold much air to support growth, just like sandy soils contain too  much air and not enough water to sustain growth.

We should strive to prepare garden beds that are composed of a felicitous combination of sand, clay, and humus – soil that is able to breathe, drain, and still retain enough moisture to feed the plants without drowning them.  Good soil holds the minerals and chemicals delivered by water, does not pack or clod when wet and warms up in the spring.  It should contain at least 18 inches of workable loam.   The more humus mulches, and compost are added over time, the softer and richer the soil becomes. And now, when the weather is nice,  is the perfect time to work on preparing the soil, mixing it properly.  Experts opine that one should start preparing the soil anywhere between 2-4 months before planting.   At Landpol Landscaping, we routinely add topsoil with all flowerbeds that we create, but you can start improving the quality of soil in your garden now….. 🙂