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Low maintenance annuals for lasting flower colour – part 1

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Celosia plumose

Celosia plumose in a flowerbed

Celosias

If you are looking for lasting splashes of colour in your garden and a supply of fresh cut flowers to your table, annual flowering plants are your best friends. Of these, celosias, amaranths, gomphrenas and sunflowers are some of the hardiest on the market, that after the initial investment of care when planted, provide great returns throughout the season:

Very few flowers are as showy as celosia. Whether you plant the plumed type, which produces striking upright spires, or the crested type, which has a fascinating twisted form, you’ll enjoy the unusual red, pink, purple, gold or bi-colored flowers all summer and fall long as they typically bloom for up to 12 weeks in all the colors of a glowing sunset. When many celosia flower blooms are next to each other, they collectively resemble fire, thus their name Celosia, which means burning in Greek.

This is definitely a sun loving annual that grows between 1-8 feet tall and spread 6-18 inches wide. It requires watering until well established and can tolerate drought conditions later on.

You will love using celosia in bouquets, but you can also dry them easily. To dry these flowers, hang them upside down in a cool, dark, and dry place, for about two months. Celosia also makes a very showy, unusual display in borders and as edging. While the brilliant reds are by far the most popular color, Celosia, or Cockscomb, also come in yellow, orange, crimson, rose, and purple flowers.

Celosia is grown from very fine seeds. Celosia is usually grown as an annual; although this plant drops its seeds and given favourable conditions, it can seed on its own and take over an area larger than intended.

Amaranths

Amaranths produce tassels of dark red flowers

Amaranths

Amaranths are showy and exotic accent plants, ideal for beds and borders. They are also great in bouquets and in dried flower arrangements. At maturity, amaranth flowers cascade to the ground from tall, erect branching stems in breathtaking tassels of the darkest red or green.

The plant is large and bushy, growing about 3 to 4 feet high. Although amaranth is primarily cultivated as an annual ornamental plant, many of its species are grown as edible leaf vegetables or cereals.

Considered a native plant of Peru, this hardy plant is now grown around the world, including Ontario. Amaranth prefers partly shady to full sunlight conditions and a high elevation, but it can grow at almost any elevation in temperate climates. The soil type is not overly important, though it should have a PH between 6 and 7. For the most vibrant flowers it is best that the soil is not too rich, as this soil type encourages growth. Amarath can also survive in low-water conditions once the plants have been established.

Gomprena Fireworks

Gomprena Fireworks

Gomprena

If you’re looking for a tough plant that will keep on blooming despite the heat of the summer, gomphrena is a perfect choice for that. This native to Panama and Guatemala plant, also known as globe flower or globe amaranth, produces dozens of showy, globe-shaped lavender, purple, pink, red, magenta, blue, orange and white flowers that blooms from early summer to frost. The additional colours are brought to your garden by a variety of butterflies this sun-loving plant is sure to attract.

Gomphrena can reach about 25cm to 45cm in height. The flowers look a lot like clover about 1 inch in diameter, and they seem to last forever and have a straw-like texture. As such, they are highly valued for dried flower or cut flower arrangements.

Once established, gomphrena is actually maintenance-free. But the plant needs to establish itself first, so it’s best to give your gomphrena plant some extra pampering initially. Even though gomphrena can tolerate hot and dry weather, you still need to provide sufficient water to saturate the root zone. You have to be careful when watering gomphrena during the roots establishment – the plant does not like wet soil, so even in this initial stage do not water the plant again until the soil dries after the previous watering. Also, be sure to plant gomphrena in full sun. The plant will tolerate partial shade, but in full sun will produces better flowers.

sunflowers
Van Gogh in the garden

Sunflowers

American natives, sunflowers, have been grown in the Americas for centuries. They have been cultivated both, for decorative beauty and as a valuable food source when harvested for seed.

These annual plants have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow (occasionally red) petals, and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds. Tall and sturdy, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, however, most of the newly developed varieties on the market today are small plants suitable for small spaces and containers that are used mainly as cut flowers.

Sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not wet. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and are sure to attract to bees and birds.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – Sumac

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Staghorn sumac will bring an interesting display of colours in the late summer and fall

Staghorn sumac will bring an interesting display of colours in the late summer and fall

Large shrubs for dry soil – sumac

Depending upon whom you ask, sumac (sometimes spelled, “sumach”) is considered either a small tree or a tall shrub. Regardless in what category the plant is put, it certainly outperforms the largest trees with its fall colourful foliage. Dense stands of sumac trees covering a slope next to some Ontario highways in a sea of red, are some of the best fall foliage spectacles we witness each year. Despite their beauty sumacs recently became less popular. This is due to the confusion resulting from the fact that apart from the delightful and harmless sumacs, there also exists in the wild a poisonous version of the species that can cause a severe skin irritation when touched. Poison sumac, however, is in a distinct minority amongst the sumacs. The remaining sumac trees and shrubs produce no poison, but provide spectacular autumn color.

Additionally, it is easy to distinguish poison sumacs from their non-poison sumac relatives in the fall, when the berries have ripened to maturity. The poisonous plants have white berries in the fall, and the berries hang down. Non-poison sumacs bear red berries and their berries grow upright. In addition, poison sumac plants grow almost exclusively in swamps, whereas non-poison sumac plants prefer precisely the opposite habitat — soils that are well-drained and many are drought- tolerant. To avoid any confusion it is best to buy sumacs from nurseries.

One of the most popular sumacs in the GTA area is staghorn sumac, a tough plant that can be grown in dry areas of the garden. It is a relatively tall, tree-like variety that can reach up to 25 feet in height. Staghorn derives its name from the hairy texture of its branches, reminiscent of the velvety feel of deer antlers. The smooth sumac tree (Rhus glabra) is another common variety; it attains a height of about 10 feet. Both provide striking fall foliage.

As mentioned at the outset, the fall foliage they provide is unsurpassed. Nor is their autumn color display limited to their leaves, for the tuft atop the plant that holds sumac’s berries is red and fluffy, increasing the plant’s visual appeal. An added bonus is the fact that this seed-tuft remains on the sumac trees all winter, attracting colorful wild birds, whose presence greatly enhances the color and variety of winter scenery. Increasingly, homeowners begin to understand the importance of achieving four seasons of visual interest on the landscape and sumac is perfect for that as adequate winter scenery is perhaps the most difficult to achieve, since vegetation is more robust in the other three seasons.

Sumac in winter

Sumac in winter

Sumac seeds are an important source of bird food, precisely because they do stay on the plant long enough to be part of your winter scenery. This makes them an excellent emergency food for birds throughout the winter and beyond. I have witnessed bluebirds, black-capped chickadees and robins feeding on sumac seeds throughout the whole winter and into early spring today.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – composting

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If the soil tests described in our last two blog entries show that you need to improve the soil, you can do so in two ways; by adding the missing chemical components or composting.

The best way to build a better soil is to work in lots of organic matter that can solve all sorts of soil problems, such as poor drainage, lack of earthworms, extreme pH levels, or low nutrients.  The best source of organic matter is compost pile, which allows you to recycle leaves, grass clippings, plant debris, and household food waste into a nutrient rich soil conditioner.  Follow the steps below to learn how to make a compost pile:

composting1

1.Build a compost pile from alternating lawyers of “wet” material (green plant matter, fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds) and dry plant debris.

 

 

composting2

2. Sprinkle wet lawyers with wood ashes (for potassium and to lower pH) or lime (to raise pH) and livestock manure, or blood meal (a slaughterhouse by-product), or garden soil.

 

 

composting3

3. Spray the compost pile with water until it is moist as a squeezed out sponge; later moisten the pile whenever it gets dried out.

 

 

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4. Turn the compost once a week, moving material from the outer edges of the pile into the center; the compost is ready to use once it is dark brown and crumby.

 

 

Repeat every year. Adding compost to your soil every year will keep it in good shape for growing plants.

Landscaping Mississauga gardens – Lawn weeds control

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crabgrassBefore we say anything else, it is important to note that it is difficult if not impossible for weeds to invade dense, healthy turf and so they are seldom a serious problem on well-constructed and properly maintained lawns.  Weeds can be troublesome on neglected areas or lawns on poor soil. Although hand pulling is practical when weeds are sparse, high weed populations require chemical treatment. If weeds continue to invade after proper chemical treatment, some other facet of maintenance is at fault and steps should be taken to remedy the failing.

Chemicals used to control weeds in established lawns are called herbicides and are applied as preemergence or postemergence treatments.  Preeemergence herbicides are applied before weed seeds germinate and as the the seeds or seedlings begin growth they absorb enough chemical to kill them. Permanent lawn grasses are relatively unaffected. Postemergence herbicides are applied after weed seed germination when the weeds are in active growth, and such formulations do not greatly affect affect lawn grasses. Some chemicals are selective in that they kill only broad-leaved plants but not grass.  Others are nonselective and kill both weeds and lawn grasses.

  • Correctly identifying the weed and then selecting a proper chemical for its control are crucial.
  • Timing is also important. For example, dandelions may be controlled in midspring and late summer in Ontario because they are growing actively and are very susceptible to selective chemicals.
  • Choose a clear day with little or no air movement and temperatures of 15-25 C degrees. Such weather permits rapid absorption and uptake of the chemical with little chance of drift or spread beyond the treated area.
  • Do not apply herbicides during the excessive heat.
  • Follow exactly the directions on the package regarding dosages.
  • Keep all containers out of the reach of children and pets.
  • Wash your hands thoroughly after using the chemicals.
  • Do not use the same sprayer for different pesticides because it is virtually impossible to rinse out all traces of toxic herbicides; use separate sprayers and label them clearly.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – lawn care tips

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lawnWhen the snow melts, your first impulse may be to get working on your lawn – but hold on your horses ………. starting too soon may actually do more harm than good.  If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, that means that it is still too early.  Wait until the ground feels firm.   That’s the time to start working on your lawn.

The secret to a grassy yard all year-around are the following easy 8 easy steps:

1. Clean up the yard  Remove all fallen stems, branches and leaves by gently raking your lawn and gathering all the debris.  If there is more than 1cm (1/2 in.) of brown, matted blades of grass located where the soil meets the roots of your lawn, you will need to dethatch using a fan rake (if you have a large space, you may want to rent a motorized dethacher from RONA or Home Depot).

2. Curb local critters  Check the yard for any evidence of tunneling moles: little raised hills and underground tunnels in your lawn.  Fix the damage by tamping down tunnels and applying blood meal (you can find it in any garden centre). True to its name blood meal is a dry, inert powder actually made from animal blood as a slaughterhouse by-product.  It is one of the highest non-synthetic sources of nitrogen used as a composting activator as well as it can be spread on gardens to deter animals.  Used on your lawn it should discourage repeat visits from moles. Once the weather warms up, getting rid of the grubs moles feed on will also control future tunneling.

3. Aerate  Buy or rent a manual or power aerator (tip: share the cost with your  neighbours!) to remove little plugs of compacted soil from your lawn, so that air, water and nutrients can flow to the root zone, improving your lawn’s look and overall health. Aeration is especially essential in high-traffic areas, such as common paths and in areas with clay-based soil (which is most of Mississauga).

4. Top dress and reseed  This step will make your lawn thick and lush – and, as a result, naturally weed resistant.  “Top dressing” means spreading an even layer of of soil across your lawn, filling holes and leveling out uneven spots. Don’t cover the blades on your grass entirely in the process though! Then spread a good quality grass seed across your lawn (read the labels on the package carefully to make sure that the grass seed you apply is properly suited to the amount of light in your yard – sun or shade).  Rake it gently (there is no need to cover it again with more soil), and water very well.  Grass seed need soil that is warmer than 15 deg. C to germinate or you will be just wasting seed or money.  A great and simple way to check the soil’s temperature is to stick a kitchen meat thermometer in the ground and measure the temperature…. 🙂

5. Fertilize  Apply lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen (the first number on the bag) early in the season. Choose a “slow release” formula so your lawn gets a consistent feeding of nutrients over time, while limiting the release of of fertilizer into the water with rain and preventing fertilizer’s burns on  your lawn.  My favourite is Scott’s Turf Builder Pro.

6. Water wisely  Lawns love water. The average lawn needs at least 30 to 40 mm (11/2 to 2 in.) of water per week.  If mother nature isn’t providing enough in the form of a rain, you will h ave to supplement it with a hose and a sprinkler.  Water regularly during the early morning hours when it’s cooler.  To figure out how long you need to water your lawn do a simple experiment the first time you are watering: set out a wide, empty container, such as margarine tub) in the centre of your lawn and check the time before you start watering; when the water in the container reaches 30 to 40 mm, you can turn off your water. Check the time again – now you know how long you need to water your lawn…. 🙂

7. Deal with the weeds  To get rid of weeds, you can apply an environmentally friendly herbicide like Scotts Eco Sense Weed B Gon, or remove them by hand.  If you choose the latter, I recommend doing so after a rain – weeding is a breeze when the ground is wet. Take care to ensure you’ve removed the plant and its entire taproot, And get to them before they go to seed , or you will only have more dandelions to pull in the weeks ahead.  Note that crabgrass control products prevent germination, so if you’ve used it on your lawn, you must wait up to 8 weeks before reseeding.

8. Cut the lawn with care  Mow your lawn to a height of 5 or 6 cm (2.5 – 3 in.)  This ensures the blades are just tall enough to shade out and prevent weeds from germinating, and also to keep roots pf your lawn cool. Plan on mowing once a week, alternating the direction each time. so if you run the mower up and down perpendicular to your house this weekend, you should run it back and forth parallel with your house next time.

If you have any questions or need help, just get in touch.  We are here to help

Shade garden plants for Mississauga, Ontario

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I hear often people complain that they cannot garden because all they have in their yard is shade.  I have to challenge this assumption and lead you a helping hand. There is no reason why you cannot have a beautiful garden living in the shade.  Here is how you do it:

  • prepare soil – rather than using triple mix, for shady gardens use well decomposed cattle, sheep or horse manure that has cured for at least two years and that is weed-free; use a lot of it – 8 to 10 cm
  • plant small nursery plants – plant only nursery grown plants.  Do not buy one that were “harvested” from the wild – they will not tolerate replanting well.  Also, there is no need to buy large five-gallon plants, the smaller ones are much cheaper and will grow in very quickly
  • plant the right plants – Here are some of my favourites shade plants for southern Ontario:

Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra) – evergreen that looks good all year round, it spreads by rhizomes or roots that creates a dense carpet of green when planted about 15cm apart – it takes about two years for the grid to disappear

Barrenwort (Epimedium) – low-growing perennials that produce the most interesting flowers. Shaped like bells, they hung in clusters just over the heart-shaped foliage below

Solomon’s Seal (Polugonatum biflorum)– this white flowering plant is a standout as at maturity it grows to 60cm high and features every June a charm bracelet of white flowers that hang beneath the foliage. Solomon’s seal is used to best advantage in raised beds, where you can see underneath the foliage

Canadian Ginger (Asarum canadense) – a great ground cover that produces broad, rounded leaves with a natural gloss that makes it attractive all season long. It grows to 15 cm high

Eco-friendly gardening in Mississauga with native perennials

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With the coming of spring many of us are planning to have a beautiful, eco-friendly paradise on our backyard.  None wants to redo a garden every year, but we all want it to be sustasinable and enjoy once planted flowers and shrubs for many years to come.  This is best achieved with fuss free native perennials.

The longevity of perennials is the main reason why people choose to plant them in their gardens.   If selected well and planted in the right way, they will provide you year after year with colour and foliage for about 15 years on average.  And you can usually share your perennial plants with your friends and neighbours by splitting either the root or the green part of the plant. You can also ) and share the success of your healthy plant with your neighbor without going to buy a new plant all together.

One of the hardiest perennials that also thrive in shady moist areas is hosta in its many varieties:

hostas