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What is plant hardiness zone

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A hardness zone is a geographically defined area in which climatic conditions’ a specific category of plant life is capable of growing, including its ability to survive the minimum temperatures of winter.

The Canadian hardiness map prepared in 2000 by Natural Resources and Agriculture Canada is divided into nine major hardiness zones: the harshest is 0 and the mildest is 8. Relatively few plants are suited to zone 0.  In addition to zones, also subzones (e.g., 4a or 4b, 5a or 5b) are noted in the map legend. These subzones are very important to  gardeners, as they pinpoint to their garden location.

The hardiness zones differ even within the greater Toronto area. For instance, Mississauga and Oakville fall into zone 6b, Brampton 6a and Etobicoke 7a. That means that in most part of Mississauga only plants that survive in the lowest temperatures -20.6 to -17.8 C, should be planted, while this threshold is lower in some parts of Toronto, including Etobicoke, where this range is -17.8 to -15.0 C, and in Brampton where the range is lower between -23.3 and -20.6 C.

Low maintenance annuals for lasting flower colour – part 1

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Celosia plumose

Celosia plumose in a flowerbed

Celosias

If you are looking for lasting splashes of colour in your garden and a supply of fresh cut flowers to your table, annual flowering plants are your best friends. Of these, celosias, amaranths, gomphrenas and sunflowers are some of the hardiest on the market, that after the initial investment of care when planted, provide great returns throughout the season:

Very few flowers are as showy as celosia. Whether you plant the plumed type, which produces striking upright spires, or the crested type, which has a fascinating twisted form, you’ll enjoy the unusual red, pink, purple, gold or bi-colored flowers all summer and fall long as they typically bloom for up to 12 weeks in all the colors of a glowing sunset. When many celosia flower blooms are next to each other, they collectively resemble fire, thus their name Celosia, which means burning in Greek.

This is definitely a sun loving annual that grows between 1-8 feet tall and spread 6-18 inches wide. It requires watering until well established and can tolerate drought conditions later on.

You will love using celosia in bouquets, but you can also dry them easily. To dry these flowers, hang them upside down in a cool, dark, and dry place, for about two months. Celosia also makes a very showy, unusual display in borders and as edging. While the brilliant reds are by far the most popular color, Celosia, or Cockscomb, also come in yellow, orange, crimson, rose, and purple flowers.

Celosia is grown from very fine seeds. Celosia is usually grown as an annual; although this plant drops its seeds and given favourable conditions, it can seed on its own and take over an area larger than intended.

Amaranths

Amaranths produce tassels of dark red flowers

Amaranths

Amaranths are showy and exotic accent plants, ideal for beds and borders. They are also great in bouquets and in dried flower arrangements. At maturity, amaranth flowers cascade to the ground from tall, erect branching stems in breathtaking tassels of the darkest red or green.

The plant is large and bushy, growing about 3 to 4 feet high. Although amaranth is primarily cultivated as an annual ornamental plant, many of its species are grown as edible leaf vegetables or cereals.

Considered a native plant of Peru, this hardy plant is now grown around the world, including Ontario. Amaranth prefers partly shady to full sunlight conditions and a high elevation, but it can grow at almost any elevation in temperate climates. The soil type is not overly important, though it should have a PH between 6 and 7. For the most vibrant flowers it is best that the soil is not too rich, as this soil type encourages growth. Amarath can also survive in low-water conditions once the plants have been established.

Gomprena Fireworks

Gomprena Fireworks

Gomprena

If you’re looking for a tough plant that will keep on blooming despite the heat of the summer, gomphrena is a perfect choice for that. This native to Panama and Guatemala plant, also known as globe flower or globe amaranth, produces dozens of showy, globe-shaped lavender, purple, pink, red, magenta, blue, orange and white flowers that blooms from early summer to frost. The additional colours are brought to your garden by a variety of butterflies this sun-loving plant is sure to attract.

Gomphrena can reach about 25cm to 45cm in height. The flowers look a lot like clover about 1 inch in diameter, and they seem to last forever and have a straw-like texture. As such, they are highly valued for dried flower or cut flower arrangements.

Once established, gomphrena is actually maintenance-free. But the plant needs to establish itself first, so it’s best to give your gomphrena plant some extra pampering initially. Even though gomphrena can tolerate hot and dry weather, you still need to provide sufficient water to saturate the root zone. You have to be careful when watering gomphrena during the roots establishment – the plant does not like wet soil, so even in this initial stage do not water the plant again until the soil dries after the previous watering. Also, be sure to plant gomphrena in full sun. The plant will tolerate partial shade, but in full sun will produces better flowers.

sunflowers
Van Gogh in the garden

Sunflowers

American natives, sunflowers, have been grown in the Americas for centuries. They have been cultivated both, for decorative beauty and as a valuable food source when harvested for seed.

These annual plants have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow (occasionally red) petals, and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds. Tall and sturdy, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, however, most of the newly developed varieties on the market today are small plants suitable for small spaces and containers that are used mainly as cut flowers.

Sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not wet. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and are sure to attract to bees and birds.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – Best trees for dry conditions: Honey locust, Turkish hazel & Russian olive

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honey locust
honey-locust is a drought resistant shade tree

Honey locust

A great choice if you want a hassle-free, attractive, fast-growing (18”+ annually) ornamental tree that won’t shade out your lawn and landscaping as it has small leaflets that produce a filtered shade.

This native to central North America, deciduous tree requires very little maintenance once planted and established. In fact, it performs best if not fertilized or watered, since optimal growth conditions in the summer and rapid growth may increases susceptibility to winter dieback of some of the new branches.

Honey locust can reach a height of 20–30 m (66–100 ft). Its leaves are bright green in spring and turn yellow in the fall. The leaves are small and in the fall they simply disappear into the lawn and decompose, without any need for raking. The strongly scented cream-colored flowers appear in clusters by late spring. The name of this tree derives from the sweet taste of its fruit, flat legume pulp that matures in early autumn. The pulp is used for food by Native American people, and it can also be fermented to make beer. The long pods, which eventually dry and ripen to brown or maroon, make a striking visual statement against the winter snow.

This ornamental tree is your best choice in dry areas, where few other trees can survive and prosper and it also tolerates urban conditions, compacted soil, road salt, alkaline soil, heat and drought. The fast growth rate and tolerance of poor site conditions make it valued in areas where shade is wanted quickly.

 

Fast growing drought-tolerant shady tree

Fast growing drought-tolerant shady tree

Turkish hazel

 

 

Another excellent small tree choice for drier sites.  It is drought-tolerant, but it also does well in wet conditions. This a tree for all challenging landscaping condition. It grows up to 40’ tall and has a broad, distinctive and refined pyramidal shape with interesting corky bark, and dark green foliage throughout the season. The crinkled round leaves turn yellow in October.  The foliage is dense and the tree provides a nice shade in summer right from the beginning.

 

 

Russian olive can be grown as a small tree or a shrub

Russian olive can be grown as a small tree or a shrub

Russian olive

Russian olive, commonly called silver berry, oleaster or Persian olive is a native to the western and central Asia, an area stretching from southern Russia and Kazakhstan to Turkey and Iran, which is becoming very popular in Ontario as introduced species.

Russian olive can be grown either as a large thorny shrub if you trim it regularly or it can grow to the size of a small tree up to 5 metres in height. This drought-resistant ornamental plant is a very attractive addition to any garden with its dense covering of silvery to rusty leaves and highly scented flowers that appear in early spring and are followed by clusters of small cherry-like orange-red fruit covered in silvery scales. The fruits are edible, and in Iran, the dried power of Russian olive fruits mixed with milk is used to treat rheumatoid arthritis and joint pains.

Russian olive needs to be planted with caution. Because it thrives in very poor soil conditions, has low seeding mortality and matures in a few years it often outcompetes the other plants and can become invasive.

Please see our previous entries for landscaping in dry soil conditions and the best evergreens to plant in these conditions.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – how to read fertilizer labels and choose the right fertilizer for your soil

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fertilizers

If you decide to improve the quality of your soil using a chemical fertilizer,which is a quick fix method to improve the quality of your soil, you face a sometimes daunting task of selecting the appropriate fertilizer for your soil conditions among the variety of fertilizers available.  Choosing carelessly just any fertilizer, based on its name for example, may lead to further deterioration of your soil.

When using a fertilizer, you need to keep in mind the type of soil you originally have which you should determine by a taking a soil test described in one of our previous blog entries.

1. the soil tests done by using a soil kit to test for the pH and key nutrients levels described in detail here, determines what is the pH scale of your soil.  The pH scale describe the degree of acidity and alkalinity: an extremely high  (alkaline) or low (acid) pH levels affect the ability of plant to absorb essential mineral nutrients from the soil.  The majority of plants in southern Ontario flourish in soils with a pH ranging between 6 and 7, which is mildly acid to neutral.  To raise the pH level of acid soil, add ground limestone from a local garden centre, or wood ashes from a fireplace after the spring cleaning; to lower the pH of alkaline soil, use powdered sulfur, acid peat moss, or an acid fertilizer or simply mulch your garden with with acid ladden pine needles or oak leaves, which will lower the pH level as they decompose.

2. there are three major ingredients your soil needs in order for plants to flourish: nitrogen (for leaf and steam growth), phosphorus (for root development, seed formation and flowering), and potassium that enhances the plants vigour and resistance to diseases.  On the bag of fertilizer, the ratio of these nutrients is always expressed in this order: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K); that means that 10-10-10 fertilizer has ten percent of each nutrient mixed with filler, while 5-10-5 fertilizer is higher in phosphorus.

Landscaping Mississauga gardens -moisture

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draught tolerantThe moisture content of the soil on your property greatly affects the design of your low-maintenance garden.  Before planting examine whether your proposed garden site, as it naturally exists, is wet or dry.  Once you have determined that, you can either amend the soil or choose plants that flourish in the sort of soil you have in the garden.

The most recent trend in landscape design is  xeriscaping -choosing plants that will survive on only the natural water that is available to them. These plants should be grouped together in a dry sunny area of your garden.

However, even if your gardening area is usually dry and you decide to grow drought tolerant plants, you still may want to ensure continued good drainage in the proposed garden site before you start planting. Good drainage will prevent unusually heavy downpours or extended spells of wet weather from creating lingering puddles that could drown your plants. You can improve drainage by building raised beds on top of existing soil, by installing underground drainage pipes or tiles, or by regrading the area to create a slope that will allow water to drain away.

If your proposed garden area is generally moist, you still need to be prepared to keep it watered in dry weather. You need a water source nearby, so that during a drought you can sprinkle the spot daily in the afternoons or keep moist with the soaker hose.

Check our next blog entries for ideas what plants will do well in specific soil conditions in Mississauga and generally GTA area.  Here is our next blog entry on shrubs that perform well  in dry soil.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – composting

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If the soil tests described in our last two blog entries show that you need to improve the soil, you can do so in two ways; by adding the missing chemical components or composting.

The best way to build a better soil is to work in lots of organic matter that can solve all sorts of soil problems, such as poor drainage, lack of earthworms, extreme pH levels, or low nutrients.  The best source of organic matter is compost pile, which allows you to recycle leaves, grass clippings, plant debris, and household food waste into a nutrient rich soil conditioner.  Follow the steps below to learn how to make a compost pile:

composting1

1.Build a compost pile from alternating lawyers of “wet” material (green plant matter, fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds) and dry plant debris.

 

 

composting2

2. Sprinkle wet lawyers with wood ashes (for potassium and to lower pH) or lime (to raise pH) and livestock manure, or blood meal (a slaughterhouse by-product), or garden soil.

 

 

composting3

3. Spray the compost pile with water until it is moist as a squeezed out sponge; later moisten the pile whenever it gets dried out.

 

 

composting4

4. Turn the compost once a week, moving material from the outer edges of the pile into the center; the compost is ready to use once it is dark brown and crumby.

 

 

Repeat every year. Adding compost to your soil every year will keep it in good shape for growing plants.

Landscaping Mississauga – knowing the soil type

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Plants grow in a variety of soils from Yukon tundra to Wasaga beaches; most individual plants, however, do well only in particular types of soil.  Thus, a crucial first step in designing a low maintenance garden is to evaluate your soil and the kinds of plants that grow best in it.

Sand and clay represent two extreme soil conditions. Clay soil consists of tiny particles packed together so tightly that water has difficulty seeping through.  Dense and heavy clay tends to block the spread of roots and may ultimately suffocate them; yet, the clay soil is usually loaded with nutrients because they have little opportunity to wash away.

Sandy soil contains large, loose-fitting particles that constantly shift. It has many air pocket for water to drain through and ample room for roots to spread.

Although you can find plants suitable for clay or sandy soil, you can greatly expand your selection by improving the soil with organic matter.  Your goal should be to create soil that drains within an hour after heavy rain, crumbles fairly easily in your hand, and is full of nutrients.  You can also buy a soil-testing kit from your local garden centre or hardware store and test your soil for acidity (pH scale) and key nutrients, such as nitrogen (for leaf and stem growth), phosphorus ( for root development and seeds formation) and potassium (that enhances plants vigor and resistance to diseases.  The majority of plants in the Greater Toronto Area will flourish in soils with pH ranging between 6 and 7, which is mildly acid to neutral.

Follow the steps below to test your soil:

soil type testing step 1.Step 1:

To get a representative sample of soil, mix trowefuls of soil from different parts of the garden together and put a small amount of soil in the kit’s test tube.

 

soil type 2Step 2:

Add the required amount of indicator fluid to the collected soil; gently shake the tube, and wait for the content to settle.

 

soil type 3Step 3:

Compare the tube to the test kit’s colour chart.  The more expensive your kit is the more accurate information on your soil conditions will you be able to derive.

 

soil type 4Step 4:

If your soil’s pH is too low, add lime to raise the level; on the other hand, to lower teh pH level, work powdered sulfur or wood ashes into the soil.  See the next week’s blog entry for details how to improve the soil condition.

Landscaping Mississauga gardens – Lawn weeds control

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crabgrassBefore we say anything else, it is important to note that it is difficult if not impossible for weeds to invade dense, healthy turf and so they are seldom a serious problem on well-constructed and properly maintained lawns.  Weeds can be troublesome on neglected areas or lawns on poor soil. Although hand pulling is practical when weeds are sparse, high weed populations require chemical treatment. If weeds continue to invade after proper chemical treatment, some other facet of maintenance is at fault and steps should be taken to remedy the failing.

Chemicals used to control weeds in established lawns are called herbicides and are applied as preemergence or postemergence treatments.  Preeemergence herbicides are applied before weed seeds germinate and as the the seeds or seedlings begin growth they absorb enough chemical to kill them. Permanent lawn grasses are relatively unaffected. Postemergence herbicides are applied after weed seed germination when the weeds are in active growth, and such formulations do not greatly affect affect lawn grasses. Some chemicals are selective in that they kill only broad-leaved plants but not grass.  Others are nonselective and kill both weeds and lawn grasses.

  • Correctly identifying the weed and then selecting a proper chemical for its control are crucial.
  • Timing is also important. For example, dandelions may be controlled in midspring and late summer in Ontario because they are growing actively and are very susceptible to selective chemicals.
  • Choose a clear day with little or no air movement and temperatures of 15-25 C degrees. Such weather permits rapid absorption and uptake of the chemical with little chance of drift or spread beyond the treated area.
  • Do not apply herbicides during the excessive heat.
  • Follow exactly the directions on the package regarding dosages.
  • Keep all containers out of the reach of children and pets.
  • Wash your hands thoroughly after using the chemicals.
  • Do not use the same sprayer for different pesticides because it is virtually impossible to rinse out all traces of toxic herbicides; use separate sprayers and label them clearly.

Landscaping Mississauga Gardens – lawn care tips

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lawnWhen the snow melts, your first impulse may be to get working on your lawn – but hold on your horses ………. starting too soon may actually do more harm than good.  If your lawn feels spongy underfoot, that means that it is still too early.  Wait until the ground feels firm.   That’s the time to start working on your lawn.

The secret to a grassy yard all year-around are the following easy 8 easy steps:

1. Clean up the yard  Remove all fallen stems, branches and leaves by gently raking your lawn and gathering all the debris.  If there is more than 1cm (1/2 in.) of brown, matted blades of grass located where the soil meets the roots of your lawn, you will need to dethatch using a fan rake (if you have a large space, you may want to rent a motorized dethacher from RONA or Home Depot).

2. Curb local critters  Check the yard for any evidence of tunneling moles: little raised hills and underground tunnels in your lawn.  Fix the damage by tamping down tunnels and applying blood meal (you can find it in any garden centre). True to its name blood meal is a dry, inert powder actually made from animal blood as a slaughterhouse by-product.  It is one of the highest non-synthetic sources of nitrogen used as a composting activator as well as it can be spread on gardens to deter animals.  Used on your lawn it should discourage repeat visits from moles. Once the weather warms up, getting rid of the grubs moles feed on will also control future tunneling.

3. Aerate  Buy or rent a manual or power aerator (tip: share the cost with your  neighbours!) to remove little plugs of compacted soil from your lawn, so that air, water and nutrients can flow to the root zone, improving your lawn’s look and overall health. Aeration is especially essential in high-traffic areas, such as common paths and in areas with clay-based soil (which is most of Mississauga).

4. Top dress and reseed  This step will make your lawn thick and lush – and, as a result, naturally weed resistant.  “Top dressing” means spreading an even layer of of soil across your lawn, filling holes and leveling out uneven spots. Don’t cover the blades on your grass entirely in the process though! Then spread a good quality grass seed across your lawn (read the labels on the package carefully to make sure that the grass seed you apply is properly suited to the amount of light in your yard – sun or shade).  Rake it gently (there is no need to cover it again with more soil), and water very well.  Grass seed need soil that is warmer than 15 deg. C to germinate or you will be just wasting seed or money.  A great and simple way to check the soil’s temperature is to stick a kitchen meat thermometer in the ground and measure the temperature…. 🙂

5. Fertilize  Apply lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen (the first number on the bag) early in the season. Choose a “slow release” formula so your lawn gets a consistent feeding of nutrients over time, while limiting the release of of fertilizer into the water with rain and preventing fertilizer’s burns on  your lawn.  My favourite is Scott’s Turf Builder Pro.

6. Water wisely  Lawns love water. The average lawn needs at least 30 to 40 mm (11/2 to 2 in.) of water per week.  If mother nature isn’t providing enough in the form of a rain, you will h ave to supplement it with a hose and a sprinkler.  Water regularly during the early morning hours when it’s cooler.  To figure out how long you need to water your lawn do a simple experiment the first time you are watering: set out a wide, empty container, such as margarine tub) in the centre of your lawn and check the time before you start watering; when the water in the container reaches 30 to 40 mm, you can turn off your water. Check the time again – now you know how long you need to water your lawn…. 🙂

7. Deal with the weeds  To get rid of weeds, you can apply an environmentally friendly herbicide like Scotts Eco Sense Weed B Gon, or remove them by hand.  If you choose the latter, I recommend doing so after a rain – weeding is a breeze when the ground is wet. Take care to ensure you’ve removed the plant and its entire taproot, And get to them before they go to seed , or you will only have more dandelions to pull in the weeks ahead.  Note that crabgrass control products prevent germination, so if you’ve used it on your lawn, you must wait up to 8 weeks before reseeding.

8. Cut the lawn with care  Mow your lawn to a height of 5 or 6 cm (2.5 – 3 in.)  This ensures the blades are just tall enough to shade out and prevent weeds from germinating, and also to keep roots pf your lawn cool. Plan on mowing once a week, alternating the direction each time. so if you run the mower up and down perpendicular to your house this weekend, you should run it back and forth parallel with your house next time.

If you have any questions or need help, just get in touch.  We are here to help

Eco-friendly gardening in Mississauga with native perennials

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With the coming of spring many of us are planning to have a beautiful, eco-friendly paradise on our backyard.  None wants to redo a garden every year, but we all want it to be sustasinable and enjoy once planted flowers and shrubs for many years to come.  This is best achieved with fuss free native perennials.

The longevity of perennials is the main reason why people choose to plant them in their gardens.   If selected well and planted in the right way, they will provide you year after year with colour and foliage for about 15 years on average.  And you can usually share your perennial plants with your friends and neighbours by splitting either the root or the green part of the plant. You can also ) and share the success of your healthy plant with your neighbor without going to buy a new plant all together.

One of the hardiest perennials that also thrive in shady moist areas is hosta in its many varieties:

hostas